So many of my friends have a thing for human remains and I must admit, although I no longer consider myself much of a goth, there's a lingering fascination for me too. There's something about confronting mortality and pushing the boundaries of comfort that draws tourists to sites like the catacombs in Paris. And it's not just for the demented, the tourists of all sorts come in droves.
Housing the remains of about 6 million souls, this ossuary is located near Place d'Enfer (how appropo) in the 14th arrondissement (Montparnasse). It was created in response to unsanitary conditions that arose in Parisian graveyards where only the rich could afford to be buried in a coffin. The rest were buried en masse. Until the graves were full, they would be left open, inviting all kinds of lovely diseases to be passed on to the populace. Thus, the ossuary was created using abandoned underground tunnels that were already in existence from previous use as rock quarries. When Saints Innocents Cemetery was exhumed these were used as a place to deposit all of those bones that had been amassed.
At first little more than a holding chamber, it was Louis-Étienne Héricart de Thury who directed them to be laid out in the fashion that they are today, femur upon femur lining walls, skulls in intricate designs. Sandstone carvings exist here and there, along with a series of eerie wells. Plaques with quotes ruminating on death are worked into the whole experience. It is truly a marvelous work of art, a historic treasure.
Some things to know before you go: Be prepared for a long, steep walk down many steps (and of course the walk back up again). If you're in no condition to walk 19 meters of spiral staircase, then forget it.
Claustrophobics, also beware. The catacombs are popular, movement through is back to back in line with complete strangers and some areas are quite narrow.
Leave yourself plenty of time. I spent well over an hour just waiting in line to get to the museum and then it can take a good 45 minutes or so just to walk through.
Leave yourself plenty of time. I spent well over an hour just waiting in line to get to the museum and then it can take a good 45 minutes or so just to walk through.
Sunblock may be essential for the long wait in line and you may want to bring water, however keep in mind that there are no bathrooms available. Although it can be sweltering hot outside waiting if you're visiting during summer months, you'll need to bring warm layers for your descent. It is quite chilly that far below the city!
Entrance fees are 8 Euro for adults, 4 Euro for kids. But please, think first before freaking out your offspring with this kind of heavy outing.
No flash photography is allowed, and being that it is quite dark, you'll need to keep this in mind if you want to take photos without a flash.
No flash photography is allowed, and being that it is quite dark, you'll need to keep this in mind if you want to take photos without a flash.
I loved my visit to the catacombs. The place plays with your mind in profound ways, time becomes endless and the emotions that meeting death bring on can overwhelm. But by my journey's end, I personally emerged from the tunnels with a greater appreciation of life and a desire to live it to the fullest before I myself become nothing but dry-picked femur and skull.
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