When most people think of Bali, they think of an exotic vacationer’s dream, a haven for beach loving sun-worshipers in exile. But a big tip-off to its hidden treasures might be the lead that some of the most vibrant cultural rituals that one can witness on the South-east Asian island are the radiant funeral processions and warped passion-plays of sorts involving entranced dancers attempting to impale themselves with ceremonial daggers. Yes, this is a land as strange as they come.We’ll explore Bali in a series of posts, since there are a few high points for the eclectic traveler ranging different points on the island. I’m going to begin with Denpasar and Kuta since you’ll most definitely arrive via Denpasar airport and this will be your first (somewhat horrific) view of the (typically beautific) island.
Tip: Upon arrival in Indonesia you must obtain a Visa on Arrival. Citizens of 63 countries are currently eligible for this type of visa and you have a choice of a 7-day (10 USD) or 30-day (25 USD) stay. Have cash handy to pay for the visa, U.S. dollars and Euros are accepted. The visas are non-extendable and since people have actually been arrested for overstays, exceeding your 30 day max is not highly recommended unless your idea of fun is camping out in an Indonesian prison. If this is indeed this is your idea of a good time, you are what is called a masochist.
One of the great things about visiting Indonesia is that outside of the expense of your plane ticket, it’s a bargain. Taxis from the airport are affordable. Simple and clean hotel rooms with breakfast are to be found for around 10 USD a night and even a luxury room is well within the means of most western travelers. The real question lies in how important air-conditioning is to you in a sweltering, humid climate. Me, I brave bathing in sweat at 10 dollars a night because I wanna be like common people.
Despite its sordid reputation, I actually like Kuta. Yes, it’s engorged with loud, drunken Australians on holiday, but there’s a relaxed vibe of fun that exists nowhere else on the island. Although most of Indonesia claims officially to be Muslim (although often an odd blend of Islam with pre-existing native religions), the islanders of Bali are overwhelmingly Hindu, which leads most Indonesians to describe Bali as ultimately “free”. In other words, feel free to don a bikini or a mohawk. And if you’re going to don the former, be prepared to plenty of comments from the locals. They mean well, they’re just friendly.
There’s no shortage of Mohawks or gothabilly and punk music at Kuta’s punk rock refuge, Twice Bar: Rock ‘n’ Roll Monarchy. Situated at Poppies Lane Dua, the little bar hosts Bali’s tattooed and pierced crowd and often has live shows of local outfits seeking to emulate The Sex Pistols or Social Distortion. You can get a nice pitcher of Arak, the famed rice wine that provides a high more than a drunkenness and converse with the locals who will do their best to communicate and a wide variety of expats who gather here. Next door is the punk clothing store Suicide Glam, which also has a store in Germany, I’m told. http://www.myspace.com/twicebar and http://www.myspace.com/suicideglam
Speaking of pierced and tattooed folks, it’s notable that both services are provided at a bargain in Bali. However, you’ll want to find a reputable shop and ensure that proper hygienic methods are used wherever you go. Bali is an island renowned for its artists, so you’re pretty sure to find some talented folks here to carry out your artistic flesh visions. Tip: You may want to bring your own inks which can be found inexpensively online before you leave. Good inks seem to be highly prized in Indonesia and your tattoo artist will most likely thank you. Also, if you are latex sensitive as I am, bring your own gloves along as well. You’ll be hard pressed to find non-latex gloves, as I found out the hard way, effectively spoiling my tattoo dreams on my last visit.
Veggies will be pleased with Bali. Indonesia is the birthplace of tempe, after all and tofu is readily available. One thing to be aware of is that often fish-based sauces are used, so ask (grab someone to translate if you haven’t brought a phrase book). Another warning is that you’ll most likely want to avoid fresh vegetable salads and the like if you don’t want to be sick, as they’re often washed in the local water. Indian explorers played a heavy roll in shaping the culture of Bali, so there’s no lack of good vegetarian Indian food to go around here. Denpasar and nearby Legian both have amazing vegetarian restaurants that a little bit pricey by Indonesian standards but worth the sacrifice. http://www.balivegetarian.com/ and http://www.vegetarianhouse.info/ If you want a cheaper option, Warung Indonesia, within walking distance of Twice Bar, is the way to go.
It goes without saying that there’s plenty of beach activities to be had here, but the beaches in this area are often jam packed with some of the worst of tourists. If you want a more meditative experience, then head out of Denpasar-Legian-Kuta to Sanur Beach where the drunken howls of Aussie tourist kids are replaced by the gentle and strange music of the Gamelan and the calm waves.
Ps. I am aware that some people have fears about terrorism attacks in Bali in recent years. In reality these type of attacks occur all over the world, most likely in your neck of it as well. They happen no more frequently in Bali. So do you want to hide your head in the sand out of fear like a pussy or get out there and enjoy life? That's what I thought.
Next edition: On to Ubud, the artist center of Bali, a brief discussion of Rangda the baby-devouring goddess, the spooky Elephant cave and the anarchic simian free-zone and tourist trap extraordinaire that is The Monkey Forest.
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2 comments:
nice post. made me miss ubud.
I can relate, I think I miss Bali every day of my life.
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